22 July 2012

religion in italy and the shrines of ciminna


One of the striking differences between Sicily and the U.S. is the pervasiveness of Catholicism.  Being the major religion in Italy, it seems like it's not really a question of whether you're Catholic, but which parish you belong to.

A street sign in Ciminna directing visitors to their churches.
In Burgio, my husband's father's town, I found out there were two almost competing parishes: San Luca and San Vito.  You are born into a family that either attends San Luca or San Vito.  You don't switch parishes.  My husband's family belongs to San Luca.  One of his cousins is married to a woman whose family belongs to San Vito.  "They don't come to church with us on Easter," my husband's aunt explained to me.  "They go with her family."

Tiles depicting the patron saints of the two parishes, on display at the grocery store in Burgio.
A statue outside of the Mummy Museum in Burgio.
Where we have statues of historical figures in the U.S., Sicily has statues of Padre Pio.  In the U.S., a wall mural depicting social change is common; in Sicily, one of a Biblical scene, like this one in Ciminna: 


I noticed Ciminna's shrines right away.  They were of particular interest to me because they're not common in our part of the U.S.  In Ciminna, they are everywhere -- on street corners, in squares, at dead-ends.  Most are in the open air, but some are behind gates or carved into walls.  And each is meticulously cared for, beautified with flowers and well-lit with candles or lights.  


A glimpse behind the gate.

On the left, remnants of an old shrine.







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